Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
